As autumn settles in, rats and mice start looking for warm, dry places to nest, and your ceiling, subfloor, or garage suddenly becomes prime real estate. Knowing how to get rid of rats fast, and when to call in a professional, can save you from food contamination, chewed wiring, and months of scratching at 3am.

Common Signs of Rats in Your House

Most Kiwi homeowners don’t realise they have a rat infestation in NZ until the signs become obvious. Rats are nocturnal and good at hiding, so you usually hear them before you see them. If you notice any of the following, there’s a strong chance you’ve got unwanted tenants.

• Scratching, scurrying, or thumping noises in the ceiling or walls at night
• Small dark droppings (around 12mm long) in the pantry, garage, or under the sink
• Chewed food packaging, cables, or insulation
• Greasy smudge marks along skirting boards or rafters
• A musky, ammonia-like smell in enclosed spaces
• Your dog or cat suddenly fixated on a wall or ceiling cavity

Ship rats (the most common species in New Zealand) are excellent climbers and love roof spaces. Norway rats prefer ground level, drains, and compost bins. Both breed fast, so acting quickly matters.

Why Rats Show Up in Autumn

Autumn is peak season for rodent movement in New Zealand. As temperatures drop from April onwards, rats leave paddocks, bush, and gardens and head for the nearest warm roof cavity they can find. Properties with fruit trees, compost heaps, chicken coops, or stored firewood are especially attractive.

Once inside, a pair of rats can produce up to 60 offspring a year. That means a small problem in April can become a serious infestation by spring if you leave it alone. Getting on top of rodent control early in the season is always cheaper and easier than tackling a full-blown infestation later.

DIY Rat Removal: What Actually Works

For a small problem caught early, DIY methods can be effective. The key is using the right tools in the right places, and being patient enough to see results over a week or two.

• Snap traps: Still the most reliable and humane option when placed correctly. Use peanut butter or chocolate as bait, and set traps along walls where rats run
• Bait stations: Tamper-proof stations with anticoagulant bait work well outside and in roof spaces, but keep them away from pets and children
• Seal entry points: Rats can squeeze through a 20mm gap. Check around pipes, vents, eaves, and the garage door seal
• Remove food sources: Store pet food in sealed containers, pick up fallen fruit, and keep compost bins closed

Avoid poison pellets in open areas where children, pets, or native birds might reach them. If you’re using bait, always use enclosed stations and follow the label carefully.

When to Call a Professional Pest Controller

DIY works for a few rats in the garage. It doesn’t work so well when you’re hearing activity across multiple rooms, finding droppings daily, or watching bait disappear with no result. At that point, a professional pest control technician will save you time, money, and sleep.

A good pest controller will do a full property inspection, identify entry points you’ve missed, use commercial-grade bait and traps, and set up a monitoring schedule so the problem actually stays solved. Most offer a 30 to 90 day guarantee on their work.

You should call a pro straight away if you have rats in the ceiling, rats in a commercial kitchen or food storage area, evidence of chewed wiring, or a recurring infestation that keeps coming back after DIY treatment.

How Much Does a Pest Controller Cost in NZ?

Pricing varies by region, property size, and the severity of the infestation, but here are rough guides most Kiwi homeowners can expect to pay.

• Inspection and quote: often free, sometimes $80 to $150 for a detailed report
• Standard residential treatment: $200 to $450 for a single visit with bait stations and traps
• Full infestation treatment: $450 to $900 including follow-up visits and roof space treatment
• Annual maintenance plan: $300 to $600 per year for quarterly visits

Always get two or three quotes, check the technician is approved for the products they’re using, and ask what guarantee comes with the job. A slightly more expensive quote with a solid guarantee is usually better value than the cheapest option.

How to Stop Rats Coming Back

Treatment is only half the battle. Long-term rodent control comes down to removing the things that drew rats to your property in the first place and keeping your home sealed tight.

Trim tree branches away from the roof, clear leaf litter from gutters, store firewood at least a metre away from the house, and keep your lawn and garden tidy. Inside, fix dripping taps, seal gaps around pipework, and check the roof space every few months for droppings or nesting material.

A combination of good property maintenance and an annual check from a pest controller is the most reliable way to keep your home rat-free year after year.

Find a Trusted Pest Controller Near You

If you’re dealing with rats, mice, wasps, ants, or any other unwelcome guest, Unicorns makes it easy to find a vetted local pest controller. Browse verified pest control specialists across Auckland, Wellington, Christchurch, Hamilton, and every region in between, read genuine reviews, and book someone you can trust to sort the problem properly.

Browse pest controllers and other trusted NZ tradies in the Unicorns directory.

Heat pumps do most of the heavy lifting in NZ homes: warming us in winter, cooling us in summer, running year-round. But how often do they actually need servicing? Skip it too long and efficiency drops, bills rise, and the unit’s life gets cut short. Here’s what NZ homeowners need to know.

The short answer: once a year

For most residential heat pumps, an annual professional service is the sweet spot. It keeps the unit running efficiently, catches small issues before they become expensive, and protects your manufacturer warranty. Most brands (Mitsubishi, Daikin, Panasonic, Fujitsu) either recommend or require annual servicing to keep the warranty valid.

Commercial heat pumps, or units that run hard in extreme climates, may need servicing every six months. Homes near the coast also benefit from more frequent checks because salt air accelerates corrosion on outdoor units.

What happens during a professional service

A proper heat pump service is more than a wipe-down with a cloth. A qualified technician should do all of the following:

• Deep clean the filters and indoor coil
• Check refrigerant pressure and top up if needed
• Inspect the outdoor unit for debris, leaves and bird nests
• Clean the outdoor coil and clear drainage
• Check electrical connections and safety controls
• Test thermostat and sensor accuracy
• Run the system in both heating and cooling mode to check performance
• Sanitise the indoor unit to prevent mould and odours

A good technician will give you a written report and flag any issues before they become serious.

What you can do between services

You don’t need to wait 12 months to touch your unit. Homeowner maintenance keeps things running well between professional services. Think of it like a mini-service you do yourself every four to six weeks during heavy use.

Monthly DIY checks

• Pull out and wash the indoor filters (warm water, mild detergent, air dry)
• Wipe down the exterior of the indoor unit
• Check the outdoor unit is clear of leaves, grass clippings and rubbish
• Listen for any unusual rattling, buzzing or gurgling sounds
• Feel the airflow: weak or warm air on cooling mode signals a problem

Clogged filters are the number one cause of reduced heat pump efficiency. They force the unit to work harder, chew through power and wear out components faster. Five minutes a month saves real money.

Signs your heat pump needs urgent attention

Some issues can’t wait for the annual service. Call a technician sooner if you notice:

• Water dripping or pooling under the indoor unit
• Ice forming on the indoor or outdoor coils
• Musty, damp or burning smells when the unit runs
• Sudden drop in heating or cooling performance
• Strange noises (grinding, screeching, loud clicking)
• Power consumption climbing without any change in use

Running a faulty unit can cause further damage. At best you’ll need a bigger repair. At worst you’ll be replacing the whole system years earlier than planned.

Why regular servicing pays for itself

An annual service costs a lot less than a call-out for a failed unit, let alone a full replacement. The numbers stack up pretty clearly:

• Efficiency: A dirty heat pump can use 10 to 25 per cent more power to deliver the same output. That’s hundreds of dollars a year on a family-sized system.
• Lifespan: Serviced heat pumps typically last 15 to 20 years. Neglected ones often give up at 8 to 10.
• Warranty: Most manufacturers require documented annual servicing. Skip it and a big-ticket repair may not be covered.
• Air quality: Mould and bacteria build up in neglected units. Serviced units blow cleaner air, which matters for anyone with asthma or allergies.

When to book your service

The ideal time is late summer or early autumn, just before the unit starts working hard for winter. Technicians are less booked up, prices are competitive, and you head into the cold season knowing everything’s sorted.

If you’ve missed that window, any time is better than no time. Even a mid-winter service is worthwhile if your last one was a couple of years back.

Who to book

Heat pump servicing should be done by a technician with proper refrigeration and electrical qualifications. In NZ, this usually means someone with an NZQA refrigeration qualification and EWRB registration for the electrical components.

Ask about:

• Qualifications and insurance
• Experience with your brand and model
• Whether the service includes a written report
• Workmanship warranty on any repairs
• Total cost, including GST and travel fees

A small habit that saves big money

Annual heat pump servicing is one of those quiet home maintenance habits that saves you real money over the years. Book it in, add it to your calendar, and forget about it. Your heat pump will run better, last longer, and keep your power bills in check.

Find a qualified heat pump installer near you

Browse our verified heat pump installers by region: Auckland, Wellington, Christchurch, Hamilton, Tauranga or Dunedin. All listings include reviews, contact details and service area information.

Electrical work is not the place to cut corners. A dodgy sparkie can leave your home with hidden faults that show up months later as a melted fitting or worse. Here’s a practical guide to choosing an electrician you can trust in NZ.

Confirm they’re registered and licensed

In New Zealand, almost all electrical work must be done by an electrician registered with the Electrical Workers Registration Board (EWRB). There are a few very narrow exceptions for homeowner work, but most of what you’d pay someone for is off-limits to unregistered people.

You can check any electrician’s registration for free on the EWRB public register. Search by name or business, and you’ll see their practising licence status, their classes of work, and whether they’ve had any disciplinary action. A legit electrician will have their EWRB number on their van, invoices and website.

What registration actually covers

• They’ve completed proper electrical trade training
• They pass mandatory ongoing competence checks
• They’re bound by the Electricity (Safety) Regulations 2010
• Their work is backed by a legally required Certificate of Compliance

Ask about their specific experience

Electrical work varies hugely. An electrician who fits out new builds for developers might be great at that, but less experienced at diagnosing a mystery fault in a 1950s villa. Same goes for solar installations, EV chargers, commercial work or marine electrics – these are specialisations.

When you describe your job, ask how often they do that type of work. A straight answer like “we do three to five of those a week” is a green light. Vague answers or hedging is a sign to keep ringing around.

Get it in writing, properly

Unless it’s a simple job under half an hour, insist on a written quote. A good electrician will be happy to provide one. Quotes should cover:

• Scope of work with clear descriptions
• Labour costs and hourly rate
• Material costs, itemised where possible
• Any call-out or travel fees
• Whether a Certificate of Compliance (CoC) is included
• Timeframe and payment terms

A CoC is mandatory for most prescribed electrical work. If an electrician won’t issue one, that’s a serious problem and you should walk away.

Look at reviews and reputation

Online reviews are useful, but don’t stop there. Good electricians usually come highly recommended by neighbours, family and trusted tradespeople like builders and plumbers. Local community Facebook groups can surface strong candidates quickly.

When reading reviews, focus on the comments about communication, tidiness and follow-through. Technical quality is assumed with a licensed sparkie. What you’re really buying is reliability and a proper job.

Red flags in reviews

• Repeated complaints about quotes changing after the job starts
• Callbacks needed for recurring faults
• Mess left behind, damaged plasterboard, no clean-up
• Missing paperwork, especially CoCs
• Aggressive responses to polite critical reviews

Ask about warranty and workmanship

Reputable NZ electricians typically offer at least a 12-month workmanship warranty on top of any manufacturer warranties for fittings, appliances or switchboards. Some extend to two years or longer on larger jobs.

Get it in writing, alongside the CoC. If something fails within the warranty period, you want clear proof of what was agreed.

Check insurance and safety standards

A professional electrician should carry public liability insurance of at least $1 million. Ask to see proof. If work causes a fire or damages your property and the electrician isn’t insured, you’re the one left holding the bill.

Also ask about their approach to safety. Do they use test equipment before and after work? Do they isolate circuits properly and tag out during the job? These habits are the difference between a safe tradesperson and a cowboy.

Get multiple quotes, but don’t just pick the lowest

Three quotes is usually enough to see the market price for your job. If one quote comes in well below the others, ask yourself why. Budget electrical work is rarely a bargain. Shortcuts on materials, rushing the job, or skipping the CoC can all make a quote look attractive until something goes wrong.

Mid-range quotes from reputable, well-reviewed electricians are almost always the best value. You pay a fair price and get proper documentation, warranty and peace of mind.

Emergency vs scheduled work

For routine work like new lighting, power points or switchboard upgrades, take your time and get it right. For emergencies (no power, burning smells, sparking outlets), call an electrician who runs a genuine after-hours service. Describe the problem clearly, and if they say it’s urgent, switch off the main at the meter board while you wait.

Final tip: communication matters

The best electricians keep you informed. They turn up when they say they will, explain what they’re doing in plain English, and let you know before any extra work is done. A bit of respect goes a long way in a trade where hiding work behind walls makes trust essential.

Find a qualified electrician near you

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Trees add serious value to a Kiwi property: shade in summer, privacy from the neighbours, habitat for native birds. But they also need looking after, and that’s where an arborist comes in. If you’ve been wondering whether it’s time to call one, here’s how to tell.

The tree is looking unwell

Trees can’t tell you they’re sick, but they do show it. Look for yellowing or wilting leaves outside of autumn, bare branches when the rest of the tree is in leaf, fungi growing on the trunk, or visible dead wood in the canopy.

Early action saves trees. A qualified arborist can often diagnose and treat issues before they spread, whereas a homeowner trying to DIY usually ends up making things worse. Catching root rot, borer damage or a fungal infection early can add years to a tree’s life.

Warning signs worth acting on quickly

• Mushrooms or conks growing at the base of the trunk
• Large cracks in the trunk or major branches
• Hollow sections when you tap the trunk
• Sudden leaning, especially after a storm
• Dead branches making up more than 10 per cent of the canopy

Branches are too close to your house or power lines

Overhanging branches are one of the most common reasons Kiwis call an arborist. They drop leaves into gutters, scrape against the roof in high wind, and create easy access for possums and rats.

Branches near power lines are more urgent. By law, if a tree poses a risk to overhead lines, you’re responsible for keeping it clear. Lines companies can issue a notice requiring you to act, and if you ignore it they may do the work and send you the bill. Never attempt this yourself: it’s dangerous and usually illegal without proper qualifications.

After a big storm

NZ storms can do a number on trees. Even if nothing came down, there’s often hidden damage: partly snapped branches hanging in the canopy, cracked main leaders, or weakened root systems from waterlogged soil. These are called widow-makers for a reason.

A post-storm inspection is worth booking if:

• You’ve had winds over 90km/h in the last few days
• A tree is noticeably more leaned than before
• You can see broken branches still hanging in the canopy
• Large trees are near the house, driveway or car parks

Before major work on your property

Planning a renovation, extension or new driveway? An arborist assessment should be part of the plan. Trees have protected drip lines, and damaging roots during construction can kill a tree slowly over the next few years.

Some councils also require an arborist report before you can remove or significantly prune protected trees. Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch all have scheduled trees and notable tree registers. Check with your local council before touching anything substantial.

When the tree is just too big

A tree that was perfect when you moved in can become a liability twenty years later. Large trees near the house, next to fences, or shading out the whole section often need reduction pruning to bring them back to a manageable size.

The key word here is qualified. Arborists trained under NZQA or ISA standards know how to reduce a tree’s canopy without shocking it or leaving ugly stubs. Bad pruning (often called topping) creates weak regrowth, invites disease and shortens the tree’s life. Don’t hand this job to whoever shows up with a chainsaw.

Routine health checks for mature trees

Big, established trees benefit from an arborist visit every three to five years, even when nothing seems wrong. These check-ups catch structural issues, deadwood, and early disease. Think of it like a WOF for your trees.

What a health check typically includes

• Visual inspection of trunk, branches and roots
• Assessment of crown density and deadwood
• Check for pests, disease or fungal activity
• Recommendations for pruning, feeding or mulching
• Risk rating for trees near buildings, roads or play areas

When removal is the right call

Sometimes a tree can’t be saved. Advanced decay, irreversible lean, or root damage from construction might mean removal is the only safe option. A good arborist will explain why, give you the evidence, and talk through options before going straight to the saw.

If removal is needed, check local rules first. Some trees are protected under district plans, and removal without consent can attract big fines. Your arborist should handle the consent paperwork if required.

Choosing the right arborist

Always confirm your arborist is qualified and insured. Look for NZQA certification, membership of the NZ Arboricultural Association (NZ Arb), and proof of public liability insurance. Ask for recent local references and written quotes that clearly explain what work will be done.

Find a qualified arborist near you

Browse our verified arborists by region: Auckland, Wellington, Christchurch, Hamilton, Tauranga or Dunedin. Each listing includes reviews, qualifications and service area details.

Your roof takes a hammering every day: UV, wind, rain, the occasional stray cricket ball. Most Kiwi homes get 25 to 50 years out of a roof depending on the material, but how do you know when yours is nearing the end? Here are the signs worth watching for.

Your roof is simply old

Age alone is a strong signal. If you’re in a house built in the 1980s or earlier and the roof has never been replaced, you’re almost certainly living under materials well past their best. Common NZ roofing lifespans look like this:

• Longrun steel (Colorsteel): 30 to 50 years
• Concrete tiles: 30 to 50 years
• Metal tiles (Decramastic, Gerard): 40 to 50 years
• Asphalt shingles: 20 to 30 years
• Terracotta tiles: 50+ years

Check your LIM or council records for the last roof replacement date. If it’s creeping towards the upper end of these ranges, it’s time for a proper inspection.

Visible damage from ground level

You don’t need to climb a ladder to spot the obvious stuff. Stand back from your house and look up. Warning signs include sagging sections, missing or cracked tiles, rust patches on metal roofs, or peeling paint that looks like the surface is failing.

What to look for on longrun steel

• Rust around screws, edges or flashing joins
• Faded or chalky paint that rubs off when touched
• Lifted or bent sheets
• Visible gaps where sheets meet the ridge or gutter

What to look for on tiled roofs

• Cracked, broken or missing tiles
• Moss or lichen spreading across tiles
• Tiles that have slipped out of alignment
• Visible wear on the surface coating

Leaks in the ceiling or walls

Brown stains on ceilings, damp patches after rain, or bubbling paint in top-floor rooms are all red flags. Sometimes leaks appear nowhere near the actual damage because water travels along rafters before dripping through.

One or two small leaks might be fixable with targeted repairs. Multiple leaks, or leaks that come back after being patched, usually mean the whole roof is failing and repairs are just buying time.

Daylight in the attic

If you can get safely into your roof cavity, take a torch and have a look. If you can see daylight coming through the roof, that’s not ventilation, that’s a hole. Damp timber, mould or that musty smell that hits you when you open the hatch are all signs water is getting in regularly.

While you’re up there, check the insulation. Wet, matted or compressed insulation means moisture is a chronic problem, not a one-off.

Granules in the gutters

This one applies to asphalt shingle roofs (less common in NZ but still around). When shingles start to fail, they shed their granular coating. Scoop out a handful of gutter debris. If it’s mostly fine, dark-coloured grit, your shingles are breaking down.

On metal roofs, gutters full of paint flakes or rust chips signal the same problem: surface coatings are failing and the metal underneath is exposed.

Your power bills keep climbing

A failing roof doesn’t just let water in. It lets heat escape in winter and bake your house in summer. If your heating and cooling costs have jumped and nothing else in the house has changed, a tired roof with poor insulation might be the cause.

Modern replacement roofs, especially those fitted with proper underlay and ventilation, can make a real difference to how warm and dry your home feels.

Repair vs replace: which makes sense?

A rule of thumb used by many NZ roofers is the 30 per cent rule. If the cost of repairs over a 12-month period exceeds 30 per cent of the cost of a full replacement, you’re better off replacing. Repairs keep adding up, and you never quite solve the underlying issue.

Questions to ask your roofer

• What’s the remaining life expectancy of my roof?
• Are the issues localised or across the whole roof?
• What would a full replacement cost vs ongoing repairs?
• Do you recommend like-for-like, or a different material?
• What warranty would come with a new roof?

Getting an independent inspection

Before committing to a major spend, get two or three quotes from qualified NZ roofers. A proper inspection should include photos, a written report, and a clear breakdown of what’s needed. Be wary of anyone who pressures you into a decision on the spot.

Roofs are a big-ticket item, but they protect everything underneath them. Replacing a worn-out roof is usually a smart long-term call: it saves you money on repairs, improves insulation, and adds real value to your home.

Find a qualified roofer near you

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Dripping tap at 2am? Hot water cylinder giving up the ghost? Finding a plumber you can actually trust makes the difference between a quick fix and a weekend of chaos. Here’s how Kiwi homeowners can sort the good sparkies from the chancers.

Check they’re properly certified

In New Zealand, anyone doing sanitary plumbing, gasfitting or drainlaying work needs to be registered and licensed under the Plumbers, Gasfitters and Drainlayers Board (PGDB). This is not optional. If someone quotes you a price but dodges the question about their licence number, walk away.

You can check a plumber’s licence status for free on the PGDB website. Type in their name or business and you’ll see exactly what classes of work they’re authorised to do. A certified plumber will happily provide their number up front, usually on their website, quotes and invoices.

Why certification matters

• Unlicensed work can void your home insurance if something goes wrong
• You need a certified tradesperson for building consent sign-off
• Licensed plumbers carry professional indemnity insurance
• It protects you if the work is faulty and needs to be redone

Look at reviews, but read between the lines

Google reviews, Facebook recommendations and local community groups are gold. But don’t just glance at the star rating. Read the actual comments. A plumber with 4.8 stars over 200 reviews is far more reliable than one with 5 stars over 12 reviews.

Pay attention to how they respond to negative feedback. A professional who replies calmly and offers to put things right is usually the one you want. The ones who get defensive or attack reviewers are a red flag.

Ask for recent local references

Good plumbers have a trail of happy customers in your area. Ask for two or three recent jobs they’ve done nearby, and give those people a quick call. Most homeowners are happy to share their experience, good or bad.

Get detailed quotes in writing

Anything over a quick tap washer swap should come with a written quote. It should break down labour, materials, call-out fees and GST. Beware of vague quotes that say things like “approximately $300” with no detail behind them.

Three quotes is the sweet spot. Any fewer and you have nothing to compare. Any more and you’re wasting everyone’s time. When the prices come back wildly different, that usually signals one quote is missing something important.

What a proper quote should include

• A clear description of the work being done
• Itemised labour and material costs
• Call-out fee (if any) stated separately
• Disposal or rubbish removal charges
• Timeframe for starting and finishing the job
• Payment terms and warranty details

Check their experience with your specific issue

Plumbing is broad. A plumber who spends most of their week installing bathrooms might not be the best fit for a tricky hot water cylinder swap. When you ring around, describe the job in detail and ask how often they handle similar work.

Specialists in gasfitting, drainlaying, commercial plumbing or emergency call-outs each bring different strengths. For major renovations, a plumber with experience on consented work is worth their weight in gold. For a burst pipe at midnight, you want someone who runs a genuine 24-hour service, not a voicemail.

Ask about warranty and guarantees

Reputable plumbers back their work. Most offer a workmanship warranty of at least 12 months, and many go longer. Materials usually come with a separate manufacturer’s warranty. Get both in writing.

If a plumber refuses to provide any warranty, that tells you everything. Good tradespeople stand behind their work. They’d rather come back and fix something for free than leave a customer unhappy.

Trust your gut

Finally, pay attention to how they treat you from the first phone call. Are they punctual? Do they return your calls? Do they explain things clearly without being condescending? A plumber who is organised and communicative at the quote stage will almost always be the same on the job.

If something feels off, even when the price is right, move on. There are plenty of excellent plumbers around the country, and our directory lists qualified, reviewed plumbers in every major NZ city. Spend an extra 15 minutes finding the right one and you’ll save yourself a world of trouble.

Common mistakes to avoid when hiring a plumber

Even experienced homeowners get caught out. A few traps worth knowing about:

• Hiring off a letterbox flyer: Some are legit, many are not. Always check the PGDB register first.
• Paying a big deposit up front: For most residential jobs, paying 10 per cent or less before work starts is standard. Anyone asking for 50 per cent or more up front is a red flag.
• Not getting it in writing: Verbal agreements are fine until something goes wrong. Then they’re worthless.
• Ignoring the small stuff: How a plumber treats a dripping tap is often how they’ll treat a bigger job later on. Use small jobs to test new tradies before committing to larger work.

When to call a plumber vs DIY

Plenty of minor plumbing jobs are fine for a handy homeowner: changing tap washers, swapping a showerhead, clearing a slow drain with a plunger. But the line moves fast. Anything involving hot water cylinders, gas, waste pipes behind walls, or altering the water supply should always go to a licensed plumber. It’s a safety thing, an insurance thing, and a consent thing all rolled together.

Ready to find a plumber you can trust?

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